When three of my absolute favourite things in life are rolled together into one glorious experience is makes me a VERY happy young lady.
Those three things are a picture-perfect Yorkshire market town, an exquisite fine dining experience, and beef dripping liberally smeared on white bread. With far too much salt.
The latter is rarely the subject of any fine dining experience. Unless of course you’re at the acclaimed Black Swan Hotel in Helmlsey, North Yorkshire.The place is everything you would expect from an old coaching inn-turned-luxury boutique hotel in the country.
Low ceilings, lots of beams, creaky floorboards, open fires, armchairs, dark oak panelling, a resident ghost and lots of modern prints of Yorkshire scenes courtesy of Lucy Pittaway giving the whole place a splash of modern colour. There is also the prettiest of gardens to the rear with a very cool covered outdoor seating area.
Our room was oversized, full of character and the space was dominated by a wonderfully high, oak-framed superior king-sized bed made up with perfectly pressed white linen and piled high with plenty of deep purple scatter cushions; screaming to be jumped on. Of course we did. Charming and cosy, lovely touches included a cuddly toy dog taking centre stage on the bed, miniature Molton Brown toiletries and fluffy white dressing gowns.
His and hers armchairs, sash bay window complete with window seat, which overlooked the market square (strain your neck and you can even see Helmsley Castle), and glass-bottled Harrogate spring water. All of which provided an air of understated and rather twee luxury.
Our naughty night away without the kids kicked off in style with some of Helmsley’s finest ale and a chinwag with the flat-cap-wearing locals.Across the pretty market square is Helmsley Brewery and for those who prefer the proper stuff, I can highly recommend a pint of Howardian.
One of the four ales brewed on the premises. Not forgetting that we had seven courses to consume, we stopped at just the one before hot-footing it back across the market square to freshen up in time for dinner.
Dolled up and stomachs rumbling, Mr T and I took our seats in the busy hotel bar along with other diners and hotel guests. Some were quite obviously local folk of a certain age out for a posh meal with friends. Others, like us, younger, less countrified couples where at The Black Swan for a short break with our other halves, escaping urban life in the city for a night or two of country retreating and a slap up meal washed down with plenty of decent plonk and a G&T or three pre-and-post-posh-nosh.
The other half holding out for a bit of ‘how’s ya father’ later on. Although if you are anything like me, after far too much wine and enough carbs to sink a dingy, the lure of a dreamy bed usually results in me head-planting the goose feather-stuffed Egyptian cotton-covered pillows within seconds of opening the hotel room door. Snoring like a warthog commences almost immediately. Still, it’s always a win/win for Mr T, he gets to watch Match of the Day.
We kicked off what was to be a culinary extravaganza with a glass of bubbles, Louis Roderer Brut to be precise. If you really want to push the boat out, the menu features a wide selection of Louis Roderer champagnes including Cristal (at £399 a bottle) and an even wider selection of wines from across the globe. We ordered a bottle of Sancerre, which was popped into an ice bucket by our reserved table in the restaurant, whilst we nibbled on our ‘snacks’ and quaffed our champagne in the bar area.
The ‘snack’ course was anything but and as far away from a packet of Pork Scratchings as one could possibly get.
Three snacks each – white onion and parmesan veloute, smoked haddock brandade topped with saffron sofrito and a deep fried, perfectly cooked quails egg. And a snow crab doughnut with tomato jam and avocado mousse. All of which were delightful, particularly the thick, velvety parmesan veloute. We devoured the lot.
There was a bit of wait between the snacks and course number one – the result of a very busy restaurant. Still, Antoine, the Restaurant Manager popped into the bar area where we were seated to apologise for the delay. It wasn’t long before we were whisked off into the restaurant and shown to our table for two. Our wine was poured and our first course of seven; Fermented Beer Bread with Beef Butter was served.
In hindsight, with seven courses to devour, I should have reserved a 7pm sitting, giving us a little more time to string the experience out, and a little more room for any delays.
Our waiter was quick to remove our empty plates and followed sharply with course number two – Crispy Oyster with XO sauce and Oyster Sauce, and Oyster Ice Cream with Cucumber and Caviar. I thoroughly enjoyed the texture and taste of the salty, smooth cold oyster ice cream. The hubby not quite so. The crispy oyster was a little too close for comfort to a deep fried prawn ball… a very posh prawn ball.
Duck Liver with Cocoa, Pain D’epice and Soured Cherries followed. Beautifully and delicately presented, the combination of favours were quite something. Rich, meaty Foi Gras, with a hint of dark chocolate and the sweet and sour flavours of the cherries worked perfectly together on the tiny circles of toasted bread.
A perfectly cooked generous piece of meaty Seabass with crispy skin served of a rustic plate alongside Black Garlic, Purple Broccoli Sprouts and Teriyaki Hen of the Wood (looks and tastes a little like Samfire) starred in course four. A fresh and earthy combination of flavours cleverly following on from the richness and strong flavours of the previous course.
To my delight, the meat course was lamb. Texal Lamb served pink with Onion, Mint, Mushroom and Seaplant. Texal is a breed of sheep apparently – a heavily muscled, lean-meat sheep with an incredibly large set of balls. But don’t let that put you off – the dish tasted quite simply stunning, even more so washed down with a large glass of Malbec.
Meadowsweet, Apple & Almond and finally, a deconstructed posh take on a Snickers Bar brought the gastronomic extravaganza to an end. Both puds were exquisite in appearance and taste.
A seventh course of cheese is an optional extra (£12.50 a head), although where the hell one would put it is beyond me. We were done. We’d conquered six incredible courses and ‘snacks’ – cheese would have tipped us over the edge. I wanted Iain to give me a fireman’s lift up to our room, take my make-up off, put me in my flannelette PJs and stick me in bed. The usual Friday night routine.I slept like a baby in the wonderfully comfy, overly large bed. Cuddled up in the expensive white Egyptian cotton bedding. Not a peep from the ghost, but then nothing was waking me.
We had to be up and out early on Saturday morning so we didn’t get chance to meander around the Castle ruins or wander round the pretty little shops. Even better would have been a morning’s hike along The Cleveland Way in an attempt to walk off some of the previous night’s heavenly sins and the very good full English breakfast that we both somehow managed to polish off, less than 10hrs after that seven-course extravaganza.
The food at the Black Swan is up there with some of the best food I’ve had the pleasure of eating.
Head Chef Alan O’Kane deserves a big pat on the back for his bold flavour combinations and attention to detail. A positive air of pretentiousness, which is a pre-requisite of any fine-dining experience, and of course for that beef dripping butter.
Yes, I would have liked to have seen some crisp linen on the tables. Yes, it would have been nice to have been able to discuss the wine list with a sommelier. No, I shouldn’t of had to pour my own wine on more than one occasion. But don’t let these minor faux pas put you off.
The Black Swan’s restaurant is a few finer details and a little bit of service polishing  away from a shiny star. But if you are owt like me – first and foremost a lover of fine food – this little gastronomic jewel in the Yorkshire crown absolutely needs to be on your Yorkshire Bucket List. Not only that, it’s great value for money.
That’s right, it’s going in folks, and let’s face it, my Yorkshire Bucket List is as prestigious as any Michelin Star.
Grin & Tonic One-night stay includes:
*Yorkshire Gins selection includes various types from Slingsby, Mason’s and Whittaker’s
For more information and to book your stay CLICK HERE
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I am a pub girl through and through and a glutton for a good, hearty menu. Forever hunting out new ...
Go for the exceptional barista coffee and impressive tea menu, delectable home-made cakes or brunch/...
The saying goes ‘Life isn’t perfect, but your hair can be,’ and being a busy mother with a mil...
And it wasn’t just any old shoe, it was a bespoke, hand-made kitten heel she had decoupaged using ...
A passionate family run business that serves up the tastiest tiramisu I’ve ever had. Throw in the ...
West Midlands Safari Park is a great day out for any age. There is a huge range of things to see an...
The Peacock at Rowsley offers fine dining done properly. The historic building houses an elegant, re...
Thyme Café is the perfect balance between eating in a nice establishment, without feeling awkward f...
I love the fact that it’s a smokehouse first, restaurant second. The smokehouse has been around fo...
Husband and Wife ran, LA-Pop is situated in the up and coming Edgbaston village. Upon walking throug...
I’ve pitched up our tent and camped at Catgill Farm campsite just a stone’s throw from Bolton Ab...
I signed up to become a StrongHER ‘Warrior’ for four weeks. After the second week, I signed up f...
Nestled in the heart of gorgeous Dedham (also known as ‘Constable Country’ after the work of the...
Exploring the different heat and ice experiences with various aromas and a calming atmosphere worked...
The real ‘behind-the-scenes’ of small-batch gin production, whilst sampling (lots of) very nice ...
It’s a fun-filled day out for the whole family. There are stacks of outdoor play areas, which the ...
I love a spa. I love everything about it: the unashamed decadence of spending time doing very little...
Hidden in the heart of the East Village, part of the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park and just a stones ...
I decided on Billy Bob’s Diner in Skipton on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales as the venue for Fern...
We’ve been coming to the Tickled Trout fairly regularly ever since moving to Chesterfield three ye...
If having to care for a tiny baby with no prior knowledge and no handbook for the first time wasn’...
As I sat on the sprawling lawn, my one-year-old daughter squealing with delight as she rolled down t...
The last few weeks in London have been GLORIOUS sunshine. Even me, the most unlikely woman to ever g...
We had such high expectations of The Deep. So many people have given us glowing reviews, I did wonde...
Daisy at Camp Katur in North Yorkshire reeled off the list of accommodation options to me over the p...
The vibe, the diversity, the enthusiasm of the owners and of course, the food. It helps that the own...
Found yourself with an hour or two to wile away? Head to Dice & A Slice in Colchester – home to a ...
Elegant dining with flavour combinations you will not have eaten elsewhere. Stunning attention to d...
The last few weeks in London has been GLORIOUS sunshine. Even me, the most unlikely woman to ever ge...
Soak up the seaside atmosphere at one of Yorkshire’s outdoor pools, reservoirs, freshwater beaches...
I chose the captivating little country of Sri Lanka as the destination where would celebrate our 10t...
A weekend at Casa Turnilla Yoga Retreat in the picture-perfect Spanish town of Estepona on the Costa...
It’s an afternoon treat that’s smack bang on my doorstep. Being able to walk to such a lovely pl...
I don’t think it’s too dramatic to declare that coffee flows in my veins. Okay, maybe it’s a b...
Why I Love The Mount Royale Hotel. The Mount Royale Hotel is just a stone’s throw from York city c...
I love that the Manor House in Lindley is near enough for a quick overnight getaway but that as you ...
A floral archway leading to shabby chic décor. Wooden floors and lots of fake foliage and street ar...
I’ve been coming to Darleys for well over a decade and have NEVER had so much as a disappointing c...
Being somewhat incompetent with maps myself, what appeals to me most about this big, circular walk i...
With the school holiday’s approaching, we have rounded up our top ten favourite child-friendly wal...
When you think of Manchester you don’t tend to associate it with botanical gardens. It’s always ...
What I like best about Odyssey Greek restaurant is that it genuinely feels like you’re holiday! No...
I love it because I may be a grown-up but I felt like I could be a big kid in there, but with a cock...
For its size, Chesterfield is surprisingly well served by independent cafés and eateries, but Bottl...
When my friend asked me and my family to come along to one of the GRUB food fairs at Fairfield Socia...
If you live in Halifax you’ve probably driven past Wainhouse Tower and not realised that for a few...
An atmospheric, if slightly bachelor pad-style interior, a huge selection of steaks, attentive waiti...
It starts in the much loved Endcliffe Park, so a great meeting point if doing the walk with others. ...
The Devonshire Arms at picture-perfect Bolton Abbey on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales is one of Yor...
I love that The Devonshire Arms Inn is only a 30-minute drive from Sheffield, yet we felt like we we...
Why I love it: Since becoming dog owners we’ve tried to find places that keep children and four-le...
Why I love it: Well, firstly Fountains Abbey a UNESCO World Heritage Site so expect to be totally in...
My eyes darted back and forth as I stood on the edge of the most easterly point in North America. Sc...
Public transport and I haven’t always been best friends. Catching the “571†bus service to Bri...
That click-click of knitting needles was a familiar sound to me growing up. My mum’s a knitter. Sh...
Ye Olde Bell must have been listening to my prayers because it felt like I had literally won the gol...
My love for making things started when I was about 9 years old and friendship bracelets were a big t...
Ecclesall Road has been my stomping ground for over a decade, and although my years of whittling mos...
Afternoon Tea. It’s an iconic British tradition dating back to 1840. Anna Maria Russell, the seven...
It’s one of the places I recall people mentioning when I was a child. We holidayed every year on t...
TRAVELLING TO THE EDGE OF THE WILD NORTH ATLANTIC. There is an energy about this place that is indes...
With February half-term here, we’ve sought out the best child-friendly ice skating rinks across Yo...
Nestled in the beautiful Yorkshire countryside, a mere 15 mins from my front door, is a hidden gem â...
The Fox pub in Ilkley is my local. I can practically see it from my front door, but, I’ll be hones...
Tuesday is apparently the most depressing day of the week. The previous weekend feels like it never ...
We are, happily, very spoilt for choice when it comes to food in Leeds. The recent trend for street ...
Since I met Matt back in 2009 he’s been desperate to get me to go to Temujin up in Sowerby Bridge....
I peeled my teenager off my limb and avoided answering my husband’s concerns of who is doing the 3...
I visited the brand new Ivy cafe in the centre of Leeds last Tuesday – briefly and blissfully todd...
Celebrating 10 years of marriage at The Gilpin Lake House in Windermere Mr T and I loll lazily on t...
Diagnosed by the doctor as “too fat to flyâ€, my husband and daughter jetted off for a week with ...
Tucked away in the Grand Arcade of Leeds city centre there’s basically a time machine masquerading...
I’ve learnt two things today… 1) To always ensure that I have play-doh in my bag whenever I take...
It’s perfect for lunch with or without little ones, or worth a sitter if combining with a cinema d...
When my stepdad announced that he’d hired a barge for the entire family to celebrate my mum’s bi...
Now THIS is a great gift for the man in your life. If you want to be flavour of the month this Sund...
I needed some proper R&R. My aching body was crying out for a long luxurious massage. My mental hea...
It would certainly be swallowed up in London – hidden in the shadows of Le Gavroche, Alain Duccass...
...
Helmsley is the Knightsbridge of Yorkshire Market towns, not least because it’s home to two of Yor...
When the female bartender at an elegant country boutique hotel in a picture-perfect North Yorkshire ...
If you like to hike, then you’re in the right place. There are a plethora of walks for all, whethe...
A proper posh Yorkshire Dales treat in a setting straight out of Mary Poppins High Tea comes with a...
I swore last May when I returned from our first family camping trip in Keswick in the Lake District ...
Two weeks ago I purchased the final plane ticket of three so that Mr T could join me on a work trip ...
Celebrating 10 years of marriage at The Gilpin Lake House in Windermere Mr T and I loll lazily on th...
I still get the occasional wobble of uncertainty – was it the right move? Should we have stayed in...
The quaint cobbled Dickensian streets of The Old Town with alleyways, yards and passages by all sort...
We couldn’t contain ourselves as we laughed hysterically at probably the most fitting of all the r...
A trip to the North Pole on The Train To Christmas Town There’s a lot of really rubbish Santas ar...
The Chevin Forest in Otley is just moments from our house in Menston, West Yorkshire and is one of t...
My girlfriends and I thought nothing of throwing sixty quid each at several bottles of Veuve on a Th...
Now imagine being strapped to that chair, on the coldest, wettest August day on record, whilst not o...
I’ll be honest, when I was invited to spend a night in a hotel in Newcastle – this was not what ...
Aside from the horrific journey from Leeds to Cornwall (and worse still, the return journey which th...
You’d be forgiven for thinking you were rocking up at a sushi bar with a name like a Wapentake; th...
You can’t miss the Victoria Hotel; it’s perched proudly on the cliff tops of Robin Hood’s Bay ...
And the Cow & Calf – Ilkley, West Yorkshire. When I’m feeling blue, all I have to do is take a l...
Well short of John Travolta and Olivia Newton John making an appearance, the owners of Billy Bob’s...