REVIEW | An overnight stay at the Black Swan Hotel, North Yorkshire

A (not so) naughty night away

Dolled up and stomachs rumbling, Mr T and I took our seats in the busy hotel bar along with other diners and hotel guests. Some were quite obviously local folk of a certain age out for a posh meal with friends. Others, like us, younger, less countrified couples where at The Black Swan for a short break with our other halves, escaping urban life in the city for a night or two of country retreating and a slap up meal washed down with plenty of decent plonk and a G&T or three pre-and-post-posh-nosh.

The other half holding out for a bit of ‘how’s ya father’ later on. Although if you are anything like me, after far too much wine and enough carbs to sink a dingy, the lure of a dreamy bed usually results in me head-planting the goose feather-stuffed Egyptian cotton-covered pillows within seconds of opening the hotel room door. Snoring like a warthog commences almost immediately. Still, it’s always a win/win for Mr T, he gets to watch Match of the Day.

In foodie heaven

We kicked off what was to be a culinary extravaganza with a glass of bubbles, Louis Roderer Brut to be precise. If you really want to push the boat out, the menu features a wide selection of Louis Roderer champagnes including Cristal (at £399 a bottle) and an even wider selection of wines from across the globe. We ordered a bottle of Sancerre, which was popped into an ice bucket by our reserved table in the restaurant, whilst we nibbled on our ‘snacks’ and quaffed our champagne in the bar area.

The ‘snack’ course was anything but and as far away from a packet of Pork Scratchings as one could possibly get.

Three snacks each – white onion and parmesan veloute, smoked haddock brandade topped with saffron sofrito and a deep fried, perfectly cooked quails egg. And a snow crab doughnut with tomato jam and avocado mousse. All of which were delightful, particularly the thick, velvety parmesan veloute. We devoured the lot.

There was a bit of wait between the snacks and course number one – the result of a very busy restaurant. Still, Antoine, the Restaurant Manager popped into the bar area where we were seated to apologise for the delay. It wasn’t long before we were whisked off into the restaurant and shown to our table for two. Our wine was poured and our first course of seven; Fermented Beer Bread with Beef Butter was served.

In hindsight, with seven courses to devour, I should have reserved a 7pm sitting, giving us a little more time to string the experience out, and a little more room for any delays.

Our waiter was quick to remove our empty plates and followed sharply with course number two – Crispy Oyster with XO sauce and Oyster Sauce, and Oyster Ice Cream with Cucumber and Caviar. I thoroughly enjoyed the texture and taste of the salty, smooth cold oyster ice cream. The hubby not quite so. The crispy oyster was a little too close for comfort to a deep fried prawn ball… a very posh prawn ball.

Duck Liver with Cocoa, Pain D’epice and Soured Cherries followed. Beautifully and delicately presented, the combination of favours were quite something. Rich, meaty Foi Gras, with a hint of dark chocolate and the sweet and sour flavours of the cherries worked perfectly together on the tiny circles of toasted bread.

A perfectly cooked generous piece of meaty Seabass with crispy skin served of a rustic plate alongside Black Garlic, Purple Broccoli Sprouts and Teriyaki Hen of the Wood (looks and tastes a little like Samfire) starred in course four. A fresh and earthy combination of flavours cleverly following on from the richness and strong flavours of the previous course.

To my delight, the meat course was lamb. Texal Lamb served pink with Onion, Mint, Mushroom and Seaplant. Texal is a breed of sheep apparently – a heavily muscled, lean-meat sheep with an incredibly large set of balls. But don’t let that put you off – the dish tasted quite simply stunning, even more so washed down with a large glass of Malbec.

Meadowsweet, Apple & Almond and finally, a deconstructed posh take on a Snickers Bar brought the gastronomic extravaganza to an end. Both puds were exquisite in appearance and taste.

A seventh course of cheese is an optional extra (£12.50 a head), although where the hell one would put it is beyond me. We were done. We’d conquered six incredible courses and ‘snacks’ – cheese would have tipped us over the edge. I wanted Iain to give me a fireman’s lift up to our room, take my make-up off, put me in my flannelette PJs and stick me in bed. The usual Friday night routine.I slept like a baby in the wonderfully comfy, overly large bed. Cuddled up in the expensive white Egyptian cotton bedding. Not a peep from the ghost, but then nothing was waking me.

We had to be up and out early on Saturday morning so we didn’t get chance to meander around the Castle ruins or wander round the pretty little shops. Even better would have been a morning’s hike along The Cleveland Way in an attempt to walk off some of the previous night’s heavenly sins and the very good full English breakfast that we both somehow managed to polish off, less than 10hrs after that seven-course extravaganza.

Verdict

The food at the Black Swan is up there with some of the best food I’ve had the pleasure of eating.

Head Chef Alan O’Kane deserves a big pat on the back for his bold flavour combinations and attention to detail. A positive air of pretentiousness, which is a pre-requisite of any fine-dining experience, and of course for that beef dripping butter.

Yes, I would have liked to have seen some crisp linen on the tables. Yes, it would have been nice to have been able to discuss the wine list with a sommelier. No, I shouldn’t of had to pour my own wine on more than one occasion. But don’t let these minor faux pas put you off.

The Black Swan’s restaurant is a few finer details and a little bit of service polishing  away from a shiny star. But if you are owt like me – first and foremost a lover of fine food – this little gastronomic jewel in the Yorkshire crown absolutely needs to be on your Yorkshire Bucket List. Not only that, it’s great value for money.

That’s right, it’s going in folks, and let’s face it, my Yorkshire Bucket List is as prestigious as any Michelin Star.

Grin & Tonic One-night stay includes:

• Pre-dinner canapés and your choice of Gin & Tonic from the ‘Yorkshire Gin’ list*
• Overnight accommodation in a Classic bedroom
• Six-course tasting menu in the three AA rosette ‘Gallery’ restaurant
• Full Yorkshire breakfast
• From £255 per couple (based upon double occupancy shared room)

*Yorkshire Gins selection includes various types from Slingsby, Mason’s and Whittaker’s

For more information and to book your stay CLICK HERE

A big thank you to the lovely folk at the Black Swan for hosting the hubby and I and to Head Chef Alan O’Kane for putting on one hell of a culinary extravaganza for us.

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